September 23, 2014

The Price of War - Stuttgart's Birkenkopf


War is a terrible thing.  Whether justified, unprovoked, for religious or for political reasons, war is a very terrible, yet unfortunately common thing.

In an effort to remember the fallen and also as a reminder to make war the last resort, monuments and memorials are prevalent in the western world.  I can think of several dozen just here in the Richmond-metro area, yet perhaps one of the most interesting monuments I've ever visited was the Birkenkopf just outside of Stuttgart, Germany.

View of Stuttgart from the Birkenkopf.
Measuring at 511 meters and easily the highest point in the area, the Birkenkopf (roughly translated as "birch head" probably due to the trees) differs from other hills in that it is not wholly natural.  The Birkenkopf grew nearly 40 meters in height after World War II when the rubble from Stuttgart was carted to the top of the hill.  Allied bombers destroyed 45% of the city (including almost all the city center), necessitating reconstruction after the war.  As one walks around the summit, you can see the remnants of beautiful carvings, plumbing, columns, and other indicators that the rubble once adorned more than just a hillside.

A cross marks the highest point of Birkenkopf, and a plaque stands by with the admonition: "This mountain piled up after World War II from the rubble of the city stands as a memorial to the victims and a warning to the living."  (translation)

The walk up to the summit is not arduous and affords wonderful views of Stuttgart.  On clear days, you can even see as far west as the Black Forest.  Although not the biggest attraction in Stuttgart, the Birkenkopf touched me with its solemnity and insight into the brick-and-mortar price of war. 

Have you visited the Birkenkopf?  What monuments or memorials have you visited that moved you?

Linking up with Bonnie and other travel bloggers for #TravelTuesday!

8 comments:

  1. Wow, I didn't even know such a memorial existed! Certainly impressive!!

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    1. It really was. And it had great views of Stuttgart, too!

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  2. When I stop to think about wars and WWII sometimes more specifically it makes my heart ache because I really still can't believe that people had it in themselves to do that to other people! Memorials are good to remember yes the fallen, but also the mistakes of the past, so that hopefully they don't happen again! I visited a few while in Berlin and they were haunting!

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    1. I'd visited the memorial to WWII in D.C. before but it's much more moving when the memorials are actually *where* the conflict took place (places like Gettysburg, PA, or other American Civil War sites that are in situ). This Birkenkopf one helped me to see how many of the German people suffered from the war, too. Of course I've been able to hear a lot of those stories from my husband's German family, too.

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  3. When I am living in Germany I would love to visit this place for sure!!

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    1. It's a nice walk up the Birkenkopf, and the views from the top over Stuttgart are awesome. Stuttgart is a fun little city to visit! When are you moving to Germany?

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  4. Memorials are wonderful to visit but also really hard. Eastern Europe is full of memorials that are beautiful but sobering.

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    1. I can imagine. I've only just realized that other than the Birkenkopf, I've never visited a memorial in Europe... yet.

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