Destination: Bavaria, Germany

Alpsee, Bayern - July 2010
(c) Thrifty Gypsy

"Bavaria appears to be only a small part of Germany, but it's not so small."
-Gernot Nerb

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Since my first visit in 2010 while on honeymoon, the German state of Bayern (or Bavaria) has become my European home.  From medieval towns to pristine lakes and rivers to the snow-capped Alps and hospitable Germans themselves, what's not to adore about Bayern?  Beyond a few trips to Stuttgart in the state of Baden-Württemberg, I have not been able to pry myself away from Bayern long enough to experience other parts of Germany - and that is a testimony to the natural beauty, history, warmth and traditions found in Bayern.  It's not that the other parts of Germany aren't worth seeing, but that there is so much to see and do in Bayern that I can hardly even think about exploring elsewhere yet!

Dinkelsbuehl, Bayern - Sept 2012
(C) Thrifty Gypsy

I've had the privilege of visiting Bayern twice now, with a third trip planned for summer 2014.  My favorite experience of the first trip was being able to meet my husband's German friends and relatives for the first time.  Mr. Gypsy's mother emigrated to the U.S. from Dinkelsbühl, a beautiful, fully-walled, thousand-year old town located on the Romantische Straße in Bayern (the picture at the top of this blog is the view of Dinkelsbühl from the Church of St. George).  The family still resides in Germany, and the highlight of our European vacations is being able to spend time with them.  The family home is located within the old town itself, and being able to stroll through the cobble-stoned streets and shop at the Bäckerei (bakery) and Metzgerei (butcher shop) like a resident is a real treat.  Every July, the town hosts a 10-day festival known as the Kinderzeche, in which they re-enact the salvation of the town by children against the invading Swedes during the Thirty Years' War.  (I often wonder if my Swedish ancestors took part in sparing Mr. Gypsy's ancestors!)  It is a wonderful experience, and I highly recommend you plan any trip to Bayern with a day or two in Dinkelsbühl for the festival!    

Dinkelsbühl, Bayern - July 2010
(c) Thrifty Gypsy

Dinkelsbühl is often by-passed in lieu of a visit to its more well-known sister city, Rothenburg o.d. Tauber, which I visited in September 2012.  Rothenburg is more touristy, but its position on a train line makes the town more accessible than Dinkelsbühl, which is accessible by bus or car only.  Rothenburg's city walls are better preserved, too, facilitating delightful walks along the catwalk, and Mr. Gypsy enjoys the Medieval Crime Museum located there.  I'm sure you'll recognize the photo below as it's an iconic part of Rothenburg.

Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Bayern - September 2012
(c) Thrifty Gypsy

Probably one of the most recognized icons of Bayern, or all of Germany itself, is King Ludwig's Neuschwanstein castle nestled high in the Alps near the border with Austria.  The romantic beauty of Neuschwanstein has inspired people since its "completion" in 1892 (technically, the castle is not completely finished), including Disneyland's Sleeping Beauty Castle in California.  I've always wanted to see Neuschwanstein because of its inclusion in Dick Van Dyke's Chitty Chitty Bang Bang, and I was able to realize that dream in 2010!  If you're visiting Neuschwanstein, you can also tour its (not-as-famous) predecessor, Hohenschwangau Castle, located a stone's throw away.

Neuschwanstein Castle - July 2010
(c) Thrifty Gypsy

 

Hohenschwangau Castle - July 2010
(c) Thrifty Gypsy

Bayern certainly has its share of castles, and if you need to see more, you can check out the Residenz or the Marienberg Fortress in Würzburg, located in the northern part of the state.  In German there are two words that mean castle: schloss and burg.  A schloss translates more accurately in English as a palace, as it does not necessarily have fortifications and its emphasis is on aesthetics rather than defense.  A burg is a stereotypical castle with walls, ramparts, towers, etc.  In Würzburg you can see an example of each.  The Marienberg Fortress dates as early as 704AD with the fortifications built in the 1100s, and it housed the Bishop-Princes of the city.  It is an excellent example of a burg, whereas the Residenz is a schloss completed in 1729 (also for the benefit of the Bishop-Princes).  The interior of the Residenz is stunning and its gardens are almost equally so.

Würzburg Residenz - July 2010
(c) Thrifty Gypsy

Gardens at the Residenz
(c) Thrifty Gypsy

(c) Thrifty Gypsy

Honeymooning :)
(c) Thrifty Gypsy

Marienberg Fortress - July 2010
(c) Thrifty Gypsy

View from halfway up the hill to the fortress!
(c) Thrifty Gypsy

(c) Thrifty Gypsy

(c) Thrifty Gypsy

Beer is almost synonymous with Germany thanks to their long-established, high-quality breweries scattered throughout the country.  But did you know that Germany has excellent wine, too?  Germany is best known for its Riesling, which is grown throughout the Rhine regions to the east of Bayern.  The region of Franken in northern Bayern, however, is where Franken Wine originates.  Legend has it that during the Thirty Years' War, a mayor of Rothenburg o.d. Tauber saved his town from destruction at the hands of Catholics by drinking a massive flagon of rich Franken wine in about ten minutes.  The city was saved, but I hope they kept their cheering to low decibels while he recovered through an epic hangover!

The best companion to a good wine or beer is some hearty German food, of which I am a huge fan.  Sausages of all types, potato dumplings, sauerkraut, roast duck, wiener schnitzel, fish, beets, asparagus - is your mouth watering yet?!  And be sure to top off your meal with a strudel and a scoop of vanilla ice cream or maybe some delicious German chocolate.  Your taste buds will thank you!

I could think of a hundred other reasons to visit Bayern, but I will save those for another time.  Have you ever visited Bavaria?  What were your favorite places?

~ Just a Thrifty Gypsy